Thursday, October 3, 2013

Kilimanjaro Summit or Bust


Africa - Day 8 - Monday September 30

At 11 PM Bobos, our campsite manager, came and woke us up.  I have never been so cold in my life. It was so cold in the tent that I had to change in the sleeping bag.  There was even ice frost on everything inside the tent.  I wondered what in the world we were thinking when we thought this would be a good idea.  After finally getting dressed and packing my bag, I met everyone in the mess tent for our pre-hike meal.  None of us were hungry so we took a few bites of porridge and that was it. 

At 12 PM it was time to hike although by the time we got our act together it was more like 12:40.  We put on our headlamps, grabbed our hiking poles and started up the mountain.  One foot in front of the other, we hiked and then we hiked and then we hiked some more. We kept on hiking.  Our guide had suggested that I shouldn’t wear my base layer because I would be hot.  I didn't wear it. I wasn't hot.  I was freezing. However, it was too cold to take my jacket off and put the base layer on so I kept going.

Along the way I made one very big mistake.  I didn't drink water.  My camel pack was full with 3 liters of liquid ice.  I could feel every sip go through my body and super-cool my insides.  Because of the super cold water and the fact trying to pee on a steep incline in sub-zero temperatures wasn't fun,,,, I stopped drinking.  Around 18,000 feet the headache set in.  About 100 feet below Stella Point (the first summit point, just below 19,000 feet) my head was pounding.  At this point I was taking 3-inch steps just to keep moving.  I knew that if I stopped, I wouldn't start again.

Let me back up a second to describe what we thought this was going to be.  We knew we had to go 4,000 feet from camp to the summit.  We were told it would take 6 hours.  We were told it was a hike along a trail.  4,000 feet in 6 hours didn't sound like it would be steep or even that difficult.  For example, on our first day we did 5,000 feet in just a few hours along a 'not so steep' path.  The summit hike was steep.  Very steep.  It took 6 hours because each step was so short. 

Another thing to note is the top of Kilimanjaro. Picture a volcano with its top blown off and a big crater in the middle.  That's exactly what Kilimanjaro is.  The first Summit is Stella point at just less than 19,000 feet.  Then, you walk around the rim of the crater to the highest point at 19,340 feet.  We were told a lot of people get to Stella point and then just turn around.

When we arrived at Stella point just as the sun was coming up, we were exhausted. Jamie and I had raging headaches that crippled our bodies. We each popped a handful of Advil, drank some warm tea they brought for us and did our best to prepare for the final hike to the summit.  We were told the hike from Stella to the highest point was an easy 1-hour hike.  It did take an hour but it wasn't easy.  Even though the vertical ascent was only 500 feet, with the headache, each step was torture. 

As bad as my headache was, I could still appreciate the beauty of our surroundings.  There were glaciers all around us.  I had never seen glaciers like this before. Piles of ice, some 100+ feet thick and 100s of yards long and wide,,,,, amazing.  As we slowly made our way to the highest point, people that were there before us were barreling down quickly, happily and with ease.  I envied them.  After two false peaks we finally saw the famous sign, just sitting there not too far away.  Another 5 minutes and we were there.  Finally.  Finally.  We made it.

The first thing I did was call Katie.  Hearing her voice shot emotion through me like I've never felt before. I had just completed the most grueling physical challenge of my life and my favorite adult in the world, who had supported me every day of this journey by writing a bundle of letters, one per day to open and read, was on the other end of the phone.  I lost it.  I couldn't even talk.  For safety reasons they only gave us one minute at summit for each day of acclimation we’d had prior.  We were told we had 8 minutes before we had to start down.  I had to get it together enough to say goodbye to not only Katie but also my loving Mother who had stayed up late enough with Katie to congratulate us.  Jamie, Evan and I took a few pictures at the summit and then prepared for our hike down.

After 7 hours of intense hiking, it was time to start our 3 hour controlled fall back to base camp.  Jamie and I were hoping that our headaches would subside as the altitude decreased.  We walked back past Stella Point and then we stepped off the rim on to the steep side that lead back to camp.  On our equipment list were told to wear gators.  Gators are guards that form a seal between your hiking pants and your shoes to keep rocks out.  We didn't need them or use them up until this point. I'm extremely happy we had them for this decent.

We were in 6 inches of gravel & dirt as we slid down the mountain.  We each had a guide who we locked arms with as we descended. Locking arms was as much to help us as it was to help them. With our inner arms locked together and our outer arms holding one hiking pole each, we slid and stopped as one.  While theoretically the descent should of helped my head, the constant pounding on my body made it much worse.  My guide and I had to stop multiple times just so I could rub my head to avoid throwing up.  I'm not a sickly person so it was frustrating for me to be so weak.  We made it back to camp about 30 minutes after Jamie and Evan.  I popped another 4 Advil and drank some salt rehydration medicine that Evan had with him.  About an hour later I was back to myself.

At this point we had 2 hours sleep and had hiked over 10 hours.  We were beat and it was only 11 AM.  We ate lunch and then started our hike down to our next camp.  4 hours, 4.5 miles and 5000 feet later we arrived at our camp.  The constant downhill was a lot on everyone's knees but being back in the warm weather and oxygen rich atmosphere made it all worth it.  We chatted with some neighbors, ate dinner and called it a night.

However, there was one surprise at dinner.  Because it was Evan's birthday, the crew surprised him, and us, with a custom made birthday cake with festive decorations including candles.  Most of the crew came in to the mess tent and sang Happy Birthday both in English and in Swahili.  The BO just about beat Evan to smothering the candles.  They finished singing, Evan blew out the candles, we ate cake and called it a night.  We all slept very well that night.

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